For a more detailed description see below and you can watch the lesson 4 video for a refresher.

Leash biting

Here is a YouTube clip on conditioning equipment.

This technique can be used for any piece of equipment. Harness, collar, and lead.

I recommend starting by holding the harness and letting your puppy come towards it rather than taking the harness to your puppy’s head.

Mouthing, biting, and barking are all normal puppy behaviours but…… that doesn’t mean you should put up with them.

Pre-empting

I know what you’re thinking but if you listen to me great things are going to happen.

Reinforce your puppy for their correct choices. ALL THE TIME.

The improvement should continue as your puppy begins to understand what you are teaching them. Things include toilet training and mouthing and biting behaviours.

While they are still learning “leave it” and “open your mouth” use words they do understand like “sit” or “on your bed”.

Be prepared

Have a rope toy and biscuits available at all times.

Whatever your puppy is doing, think about and focus on what you would prefer they be doing instead. Use behaviours that they do know to avoid frustration or behaviour chains.

• Never punish the growl as this is the smoke alarm warning.

https://grishastewart.com/resource-guarding/

https://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/resource-guarding/

Counter surfing – teach your puppy that food of any kind isn’t for them no matter where it is – start by using a plastic plate and something of lower value so it’s easier for them to leave it.

I recommend starting with the sit to say please and using your plastic container with a lid in various locations including the coffee table and floor before building up to the kitchen bench.

Kiki Pup Emily Larlham teaching her version of counter surfing - https://youtu.be/erYxSWe9kbQ & https://youtu.be/7omuDOadL04 & https://youtu.be/xZCIeEUm_n8

While working on recall a great safety net is a long lead/line. The Long leads/lines I recommend are:

• ‍https://www.canineeducationaus.com/product-page/biothane-longline-leashes‍
• https://www.politepaws.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78&zenid=50i3412c52kpq0bsmeev0mr0t0

TRIP

Train & reinforce = train for short sessions (30 seconds to 2 minutes) plan a training session rather than waiting to manage the “real life”.

Interrupt & prevent = Use management like leads, baby gates and reduced space.

Remember to only practice each new behaviour 3 to 4 times each training session

Puppies will repeat and get better and what they practise. This includes the behaviours you don’t want like barking and jumping.

Removing the lure

Polite Greetings

Jumping - You will need to practise not reinforcing the jumping – saying no, don’t get down, pushing the pup off, turning your back and looking at the pup are all feed back to the pup to continue that behaviour.

When they jump – step back so they fall off and quickly ask them for a sit.

Jumping - Have the pup on its lead under your control and ask a second person to walk towards you talking to the pup in a happy greeting. Ask the person to stop just out of jumping reach and when the pups attempt to jump up on them fails mark and reinforce them for any calm behaviour or when they return to sit near you.

Cuddles (feet up on you – like jumping) – if you like cuddles and want to request them ensure it is always in the same context – sitting on one couch or chair and only when requested.

Reinforcement Zone

Gain the puppy’s attention, lure them by placing apiece of food above their nose and move them to your left side. 

Avoid holding the food too high or the puppy will jump instead of sit. 

Loose lead walking

Some pups will stop when being taken out for a walk as they are finding the new environment over stimulating or overwhelming. They have come from being with the safety of their mother, siblings and from a very small space like a whelping box, breeders puppy run or small back yard. Due to vaccination status and joint growth, you don’t want to walk them on a lead too far or on areas heavily trafficked by other dogs.

 They are also not familiar with wearing the new equipment and can be getting used to the feeling of it. Running around incircles can be a display of frustration at now being restricted by the new equipment or could be frenetic energy.

Getting the puppy used to the feel of walking on a loose lead. Start by reinforcing the puppy when they are close and on a loose lead. 

Have the puppy on their lead and step away varying your direction only taking a few steps while keeping the lead and collar loose saying “lets go” or “this way” mark  and reinforce every time there is no tension on the lead and collar/harness.

5 Tips for Loose LeadWalking

1. Teach the dog in the right     environment – that is, without distractions. Start inside or in your     backyard and only walk in a rectangle. Find a space about the size of your     dining table or a large rug. If you have a narrow hallway or restricted     space with a wall on one side use this to help keep the dog in place. Have     the dog wearing their collar or harness – DO     NOT ATTACHED THE LEAD YET.
2. Feedback and     encouragement at the right times and in the right     location. Payment like food, praise and patting should be     delivered near your left knee. Let the dog know what you like and what     they are doing right.
3. No – avoid     saying no and ah ah – puppies notice what is getting your attention and     will repeat it to get that attention (even negative attention).
4. Don’t rush –     go short distances so the dog feels like they are doing well and let them     take the time to sniff and enjoy their walk.
5. Equipment - have comfortable easy to     use equipment, avoid slip leads, choke chains as these place pressure on     the neck and retractable leads, and bungy leads as they don’t allow for     the dog to learn that they are being reinforced for the feeling of no tension.

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Wait ‍

This is a practical SELF CONTROL EXERCISE for both of you – take your time, don't rush ahead. 

• Approach a door, give the verbal/hand cue “wait” mark and reinforce for no movement. Reset. Repeat 3-4 times.
• Now increase the amount of self-control - approach the door, give the verbal/hand cue “Wait” and reach for the doorknob, mark and reinforce for no movement. Reset. Repeat 3-4 times. 
• If they move, take your hand off the knob and ask again, if they move again. Reset, take a 30 second break and start from the beginning.
• After consistent success the final step: try stepping out of the doorway and back in. DON’T move forward until this step is CONSISTENTLY achieved.

Duration, Distance & Distraction. When first training stay, do not ask the puppy to come to you to mark and reinforce them and always go back to them.

Remember to practice one behaviour at a time

It is important to show the puppy what you would prefer by marking the desired behaviour and reinforcing. Reinforcement can be food, praise, affection, the use of toys and life-rewards. The quickest way for a food motivated dog to learn is by reinforcing with food, once you are confident, they understand you can proof the behaviour by gradually reducing the food reinforcement and interchanging it with praise, affection, play or life-rewards (e.g., When playing fetch throwing the ball again or allowing the puppy to sniff on a walk would be considered  “life-rewards”).

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